So here we are a month later and I’m still talking about Vegas. People still ask me how it was, and I say there’s no experience like it, which is true. Vegas is like this vast gumball machine in the desert, pretty and glittery and everywhere you look–Ooh–shiny!
The second question is often to do with money: “So … How much’d ya lose?” or “But isn’t it expensive?” und so weiter.
So what follows is Ted’s Guide to Vegas on the Cheap, written in no particular order, with experiential notes for the edification of humankind.
1) Fly cheap.
First, find the best deal you can get on a flight. In our case we flew from our regional airport to Seattle, then to Vegas for $220 US apiece, all in. Check your travel sites often, and sign up for the newsletter. Your inbox could save you a bundle.
2) Fly light.
Most airlines now charge $15 or more for the dubious privilege of allowing them to lose your luggage. So go to the airline’s website and pack only cabin baggage that meets their specs. Horizon/Alaska allow “10″ H x 17″ W x 24″ L (25 x 43 x 61 cm) including wheels and handles, plus one personal item, such as a purse, briefcase or laptop computer.” But size specs aren’t always the same, and due to the size of aircraft on some routes, the rules may be different, so always check.
3) Have some idea of where you’re going once you’re on the ground, and how to get there.
Lori and I paid $7 or so each to take a hotel shuttle to The Strip. It turned out later that the cab fare was roughly the same price and we wouldn’t have had to wait half-an-hour for the bus to fill up.
One note: In Vegas there are two routes out of the airport. Make sure to ask the driver to take the most direct. The driver will often ask if you want to take “the scenic” or “the tunnel route,” or something. Just ask for the most direct, or for “the Swenson Avenue route.”
It’s actually illegal, punishable by a fine, for drivers to take the tunnel route, as I just learned over at Vegas.com.
And unless you specifically ask for it, only a driver who’s out to empty your wallet will drive you down the strip, where traffic slows to a crawl at about eight a.m. and just stays that way.
4) Stay cheap:
Hotels in Vegas usually offer some pretty sweet deals. The cheapest I saw (some seven miles off-Strip) was about $15 a night.
Also, most hotels will give you stinkin’ cheap rooms Monday through Thursday, then jack the rates up for Friday night, knowing you won’t feel like moving.
As I understand it, my parents often check out, check their baggage, then return in the evening to see if there’s a free room they can get for the same price they paid the rest of the week. On some occasions this has left them homeless on the final night of their stay. But in a town that never closes it’s not as though waiting up all night is that tough to do.
However, Lori and I wound up at Circus Circus, home of the delightfully disturbing illuminated clown seen here:

Can't sleep, clown will eat me
Photo by Lori.
Circus had a deal going: Four nights for the price of three. It was also just $25 a night for the basic room.
Now I had wanted a room at the motor lodge (long story short, the motor lodge is half-a-mile from C-C proper) because they came with fridges. I envisioned eating brekky at the hotel before venturing out.
As it turned out, we didn’t get our fridge, but it worked out alright.
5) Supply your own coffee.
Vegas rooms contain nothing. Nada damn thing. The TVs don’t usually have more than basic cable. Which is okay, as you’ll find you don’t spend much time in the room anyway.
But if you simply must have a cup of coffee and a croissant upon arising, and the hotel doesn’t offer a complimentary breakfast (which didn’t seem common in Vegas), then you’ll want to bring a small kettle or even a portable coffee maker with you, along with the basics for food. Had I been alone I might have tried icing a small carton of milk in the room bucket and eating cereal in the mornings.
As it was, I wound up grabbing McMuffins at the South Strip McDonald’s–Possibly the world’s most inefficiently run. I’ll tell you sometime if you’re actually interested. Suffice it to say that out of three McMuffin breakfasts I ate there, two were wrong, two were misdelivered to the wrong till, and one was actually cold. Which leads us to lesson number six.
6) It’s a long walk to anywhere from your hotel room.
All the hotels are of course behind the casinos, whose job is to gently separate you from as much of your cash as possible before you can get to the street. Usually, you’ll also have to take up to three elevators. The length of your journey simply offers more opportunities for the hotel to pry some more shekels out of you as you pass the masseur/euse-s, nail groomers, shoe polishers, hairdressers, cruddy toy shops, doughnut salespersons and other merchants and mendicants who make up the actual working population of Las Vegas. Not to mention the slot machines and tables.
The good thing is that if you want something, you can always contact the hotel desk and find out if it’s in the hotel. I had already walked off the calories of my three breakfasts by trekking out to get them when I realized that there was a perfectly good McCafĂ© in the hotel itself.
7) Sign up for a timeshare tour.
We had been in Vegas less than an hour when I encountered the first and most consistent “scam” in town. A blazered woman of middle years tugged at my elbow and asked “Excuse me, are you two a couple?”
We allowed the possibility, and she said “Are you here for a couple of days?”
When she learned the answer was “Yes,” she herded us to a nearby counter.
“What we’re offering today,” she said “Is the opportunity to get a $125 gift card.”
I was inclined to say no. I mean, if anyone offers me an empty pop bottle I tend to look for the catch.
$125? I figured it would be like those furniture stores where the three-piece suite which sells separately for $1400 is advertised as a package at $1000 under a blaze of “Save 40%.” Sure. Everyone knows the way to save is to spend more, right?
So I was about to shine her on, and got a bit sniffy when my wife apparently sucked in completely, and long story short, signed us up for “a presentation–Two hours at the most.”
Note: They don’t make the offer to singles. So if you’re flying solo you’ll have to make your own arrangements–Vegas is also known for its quick-’n'-easy wedding chapels, and of course its cocomittently easy divorces.
The next day we went to the presentation by limo to the Polo Towers, where we endured three hours of fairly hard sell. Due, apparently, to the large number of people enrolled, we were lumped in with a nice Hispanic couple from Nebraska who already owned a timeshare.
We’d already rehearsed our answer: “No.” And that’s the thing to keep in mind above all else. These people have lured you with the promise of goods to see their presentation. That’s all the obligation you are under. You can legitimately turn them down flat and you need no reason other than “We don’t feel like it.”
But they’re ready for your initial refusal. And your secondary and tertiary, and more. And they will hammer at you until you feel guilty that this poor salesperson won’t make their commission off of you. Don’t.
The initial deal we were offered started at$14,000 plus a thousand or so a year. After three refusals we had them down to $4,000. Eventually our saleslady, who was very nice, apparently recognized that we weren’t buying and said “Okay, well that’s it then. Now I just have to go and get the corporate guy to make sure you’ve been properly treated.”
Although our will had been somewhat worn down, the knowledge that we were about to get double-dipped reinforced my “No”-saying muscles.
Sure enough, the corporate guy asked about how well we’d been looked after (no complaints–they really were very nice) and then asked “How about if I could offer you a super-saver package for $800 plus another $800 per year.”
At that point it was easy to say no. As we were walked to the front desk to claim our rewards, the sales lady said:
“I don’t usually do this anymore. I work in the office. But when they heard how many had signed up, they pulled me out to work today.”
We expressed some sympathy, and she continued. I was petrified she might break down crying and tell us about her six kids who each needed a life-saving operation and couldn’t we please, please, just buy the $400 Super-Duper-Extra-Bonus Saver Package?
Instead she said “That’s why I got you guys. Canadians never buy anything.”
I felt an obscure sort of nationalist pride. We walked away with $125 in Visa pre-loaded debit cards, and we ate on those cards for most of the time we were there.
{Out of curiosity I checked the numbers on our return home. We’d spent $128.35 or so. I keep expecting to get a dunning notice in the mail saying we have to go back for another ten-minute presentation.}
Once you’ve had one presentation, you’re not allowed to take another for a couple of months, so it would pay, I’d imagine, to shop around. They aren’t hard to spot. Everywhere you go nicely-dressed people will ask “Are you two a couple?” and “How long are you staying?”
Once you’ve had yours, of course, you can always a) tell them you’re not interested, b) tell them you’ve just come from one, or c) tell them you’re flying out in three hours’ time.
8) Eat cheap.
Vegas meals all seem overpriced. I’m a fast-food-and-noodle-counter kind of guy when I travel. At heart, I’d risk ptomaine rather than ptip. But Vegas charges a high price for the privilege of sitting down. The motto of Las Vegas is “TAANSTAFS”–There Ain’t Any Such Thing As a Free Seat. For example:
Free drinks
All casinos let players drink free. And why not? Between the server (usually a fadedly pretty middle-aged woman in a low-cut top that acts rather like a Jell-O mold) taking your order and delivering it you’ll have spent four times the cost of the most expensive house booze.
We found it cheaper to sit at the Sahara‘s main casino bar and drink $1 Miller Drafts (note: I never had a nice draught beer in Vegas–Drink from a bottle when possible) and $1 half-ounce shots. You can usually get a 44-ounce (1.3 litre) football-shaped container of beer for anything from $4.95 and up.
Free Show
By contrast, the drinks at the Bellagio‘s lounge were anything but free. Lori’s cocktail cost $14. My delicious Belgian beer cost $8. I chose the expensive beer because the “cheap” stuff was $7, which when you consider that retail bottled beer was going for $1.75 at our hotel, gives you some idea of how inflated it actually was.
The band, Dian Diaz rocked. Eight very accomplished musicians playing mostly eighties hits. But whether they were worth the $20 we wound up paying (drinks being a dollar each elsewhere, right?), considering we walked in just as the third and final set began is subject to discussion.
By contrast, the Freemont Street Illuminations are still free at the heart of Old Vegas. Lori hadn’t heard of it and was pleasantly surprised when suddenly every neon-drenched inch of the place went dark and the overhead screens lit up.

Another damn tourist on Freemont
Photo, again, by Lori.
Free Slot Play
Almost every casino/resort has a Player’s Club of some sort. Some of them are worth signing up for on principle. Most offer incentives such as free keychains, clothing, or casino cards, but the most common incentive is “free slot play.”
This usually comes in two forms: The honest and the scam. The honest is when the membership card comes pre-loaded with a set amount of money, say ten bucks. The deal is that you feed $10 of your own into the slot machine, then plug in the card. Once it’s validated (which usually requires you to enter a PIN), you play out the ten bucks and then you can cash out your own money and leave.
The scam is when you have to accumulate points to get the slot cash. We never managed it. It looked, from my back-of-the-envelope calculations, as though you had to blow about $100 at the Treasure Island casino to earn sufficient points to get the “free” cash.
But we never managed it at Circus Circus either, because of rule 10.
The worst scam we ran into was at the Hooters Casino, a joint we visited only because of the huge streetside banner reading “COME ON IN–$100 IN FREE SLOT PLAY!”
I have nothing against smiling girls in tight shorts and halter tops, but I dislike it being a condition of employment. Fortunately the girl at the counter was unhappy-looking, dressed in dumpy sweatshirt and jeans, and scowling. We got our “$100 gift card” and entered the casino.
The scam at Hooters is this: The cards were only good for a small section of roped-off machines which played at $10 per spin. Furthermore, the winning combinations were capped at $1000 on machines that normally would have paid out two hundred times that much had any of the broadly-spaced symbols on their dingy reels aligned.
Anyway, on to Rule 10.
Rule 10:
Don’t gamble
Look, the whole point to all the glitter, all the attractions, all the “freebies’ is to get you to engage in a mug’s game. Slot machines pay back up to 99% of what they take in. The problem is that they usually pay it back in a lump–to somebody else.
Of the other games it should suffice to say that, for example, if you play with the best possible strategy at blackjack in a single-deck, one-dollar game, you can probably manage to tilt the odds to about 49% in your favour.
Now try and find a single-deck one-dollar blackjack game in Vegas. You can do it. There’s probably one held in the toilet stall marked “Out of order” on the third floor of the Flamingo at four a.m. on alternate Tuesdays in months without an “R” in them. Elsewhere you’re playing a “shoe” of four to eight decks, and the table limit will be $5.
If you haven’t cracked a book on your vice of choice you shouldn’t be anywhere near the table. My father refers to a passage in Guerrila Gambling, a book he read in the eighties:
“It says that a winner is someone who goes into a casino and is offered a free pen. And he takes the pen and leaves.”
Me, I like poker. There has to be luck in poker, but a moderately skilled player can entertain himself for a while before that luck either kicks in or runs out. I played two tourneys and lost one through impatience, the other through bad luck. Perhaps I’ll tell you about that some other time.
If you insist on gambling in Vegas, my advice is to pre-determine how much you want to gamble, carry your gambling money in cash and never touch your credit or debit cards for anything to do with gambling.
Also, you and me, we’re peons. Stick to the low limit tables. The only exception to this, I think, based on the general advice of the Wizard of Odds, is slots, where higher limits mean better odds and payouts, BUT also eat your money much faster.
You likely won’t leave richer, but you’ll at least keep your gambling expenditure within your means.
One last word about free stuff.
There’s plenty of free entertainment in Vegas. You can catch the free evening entertainment outside the Mirage (volcano eruption), the Treasure Island (rather skanky pirate show), and the Bellagio (the famous fountains). You can watch the lions in their habitat at the MGM Grand. You can people-watch everywhere the whole live-long day and never get bored.

Where else can you see lions?
{Click
here for the answer.}
Photo by … You guess. Honestly, did Lori do anything but take photos?
And there are plenty of other freebie possibilities I haven’t covered and am not as yet aware of. Take the time to look them up.
Conclusion:
Chance favours the prepared. It’s certainly possible to go to Vegas and end up hungover, broke, and disappointed, but it’s far more fun to go home richer for the experience.
For more and far better info than I’ve provided here, I recommend cracking a good guidebook. I’m personally fond of the Let’s Go travel series, but on this trip we carried a different guide, the Open Road.
There are more websites out there than I can count that will happily help you research Vegas. I suggest starting with this About.com page listing “The Best Free Things in Vegas,” and other features (there are several “Best of” lists on each page and no two are alike, so check around).
Have a good time, and drop a comment here when you get back, especially if you’ve found another way to save a little dough on the trip.